Expensive (But Worth It) Anchovies, a Pasta Water Candle, and More

An in-the-know Somm shares her favorite things.

The Deligram shines a spotlight on the many incredible food artisans in New York and beyond, and we look to our friends to help us discover the best of the best every day. This week, we spoke to Victoria James, the executive director of Beverage and a partner at Gracious Hospitality Management. Even if you don’t know the name, you certainly know their establishments: Cote, in NYC, Miami, and now Singapore; cocktail bar Undercote, and new fried chicken hotspot COQODAQ. James is also the author of Drink Pink, A Celebration of Rosé and Wine Girl, The Trials and Triumphs of America's Youngest Sommelier, and a co-founder of Wine Empowered, a non-profit that offers tuition-free wine classes to women and BIPOC in hospitality. Needless to say, James is a certified expert in the food and wine space, with enviable taste.

Victoria James’s Favorite Things

Santa Maria Novella’s Carta d'Armenia post-cooking papers, $28, us.smnovella.com

“My Piedmontese family burns these little resin-soaked papers after they cook so that the house doesn’t have ‘cooking aromas,’ which I thought I didn’t mind. But, now, in my New York City apartment after making a meal I absolutely have to burn these. Why would you want your space to smell like onions and garlic when instead the air can be thick with resins and spices!?”

Don Bocarte anchovies, $15 for 48 grams, despananyc.com

“Before #girldinner was even a thing, I almost bought a dying anchovy factory on a Grenache-heavy afternoon in the south of France. Although that dream didn’t pan out, the obsession remained, and with Don Bocarte I finally found the perfect little fish. They’re expensive for tinned fish, but just buy them and thank me later.”

D.S. & Durga Pasta Water Candle, $70, dsanddurga.com

“D.S. & Durga teamed up with the boss team behind Jupiter (my favorite spot in NYC right now, besides King, their other restaurant) to create this carb-scented candle that gives guests the impression that you are about to make dinner for them. I fell in love with my partner over a few months of this candle burning in the background, so to me, it always has a strong emotional warmth. It’s not just me though, I’ve gifted to friends, and they all are enamored - only three of the most incredible female restaurateurs in NYC could make something so addictive.”

Korean Red Ginseng, $220, kgcus.com

“During my first trip to Korea with Simon Kim and our other partners, I became properly addicted to this extract. Now, it's like my morning cup of coffee. For new restaurant openings (like COQODAQ!), when I have to work all day in the office and on the floor at night, and still be fresh for my daughter when she wakes up at 6 a.m., this is a must!”

Romilly Newman’s Tableware Collection, shopcurioshop.com

“I didn’t even know that I needed a George III Cellarette for my wines but now that you’ve seen this as well, can you imagine your life without one? I hope not.”

Kate McLeod Daily Stone Lotion Bar, $45, katemcleod.com

“I love the story of this pastry chef, who lives in the Hudson Valley and uses her chocolate molds to make what is essentially a bar for your body. How did I live without this? I am on an airplane at least every other week and absolutely loathe checking my bag, but my dry skin requires buckets of lotion, so instead, I pack this bar. I love that it melts like butter upon contact, just like butter on a hot pan.”

Product images courtesy of the brands.

Edited by Sarah Leon.