Meet The Ceramicist Making Organic Spice Blends in Bedstuy, Brooklyn

The Deli is an ode to the artisanal food makers of New York. Last week, we introduced Salsa Pistolero’s fresh TexMex salsas and tortillas by Miguel Bañuelos. This week, we spoke to Tel Aviv-born designer Romi Hefetz who founded Pastiche Foods, a line of small-batch spices made in Bed-Stuy, Brooklyn.

The Product: Middle-Eastern, organic spice blends & roasting rubs.
The Deli Pick: Ras el Hanout
How To Buy: Online on Etsy and Foodlyn, or in stores. Ships within NY state only. $13 per jar. 

I moved to the US in 1999 to study Product Design at Parsons, and worked as a designer for a few years after graduating then opened my own ceramics studio in 2008. I did that full time for 10 years, making home goods and doing custom work for restaurants such as Jean-Georges in Europe and here. At some point, I realized I wasn’t enjoying it anymore because I was producing more than I was creating, so I closed in 2018. I always had this dream of doing something with food, but I didn't know what exactly. So I started exploring different things and the spices became a natural progression. In many ways, spice making reminds me of ceramics; the use of hands, the precision and calculation of everything. 

I started Pastiche in August of 2019. We spent a lot of time brainstorming the name, and ended up going with Pastiche, a French word we use in Hebrew and English to designate a mix of things that, together, create a richer experience. Given my creative background, designing the packaging was almost the best part! The flavors are inspired by classics I grew up with; the mixes themselves are my own personal take on them. I love how spices can transport one to a time and place; it has this very intimate quality, a connection between smell, feel and memory that is unique to each of us.

At first, I did a lot of testing at home in small quantities and I invited friends over for barbecues to see what people liked. I have a friend whose mom owns a kimchi business [Arirang] and she used to help her with the business, so she started working with me at the beginning and got me into a bunch of stores and street fairs such as the Brooklyn Flea and Hester Street. 

Because of COVID, things have been slower and trickier; I can’t do markets and demos in stores anymore, which is something I fell in love with. Unlike ceramics, which take a lot more charm to convince people to purchase, I love the immediacy of the spices. If I can get people to taste it, they buy it on the spot. Having a design background, I have to build my food community on my own; it is so fun meeting the strangers who are going to use what I make in my kitchen. I don't want to give that up. 

I want to keep developing the line at my own pace; I have an idea for another version of the Harissa that I would really like to do too. My other dream is, at some point, to start making tahini but I would need a commercial kitchen for that. It’s a whole different operation and the shelf life is very short. I want Pastiche to grow, but at the same time, I don't think I have the desire for it to be too big. 

Greatest hit: The Harissa Spice Blend and the Aromatic Roasting Rub are my bestsellers when I do demos and people get to taste them. When I sell online, it's actually the Baharat which I was surprised by, but I think the people familiar with it are looking for that specifically. 

Most underrated product: The Tan-Tan Moroccan Spice Blend. It is very unique because it's sweet, but it's also really spicy. When Moroccans try it, they say it is the taste of home.

Tips to best enjoy your products: They all go well with meat, fish, and roasted vegetables. I love the Tan-Tan over mashed sweet potatoes or butternut squash and a little butter. The Harissa I use on almost everything but I highly recommend making this chicken marinade with honey, lime juice, and cilantro. I’ve made savory scones with the Ras el Hanout too. And I often blend each of them with thick Greek yogurt, which makes for the best dips. My products last about two years but if you want to keep them for longer I’d recommend putting them in the fridge. 

Favorite places to eat in NY: My go-tos are Miznon, Cafe Mogador, Sofreh, and Tanoreen. In my neighborhood, I often go to Saraghina and recently had a great meal at L’Antagoniste.

Food makers to follow: I am a member of the Park Slope Food Coop so I buy most of my things from there, including bread from Eli’s. Brooklyn Queen makes delicious honey in Bed-Stuy.