Three NY-Based Coffee Roasters We Love
Time to caffeinate ☕
The Deligram is an ode to the artisanal food makers of New York. In our last issue, Brooklyn-based cook and creative Maryah Ananda shared the things she loves right now, from her favorite apron to the pappardelle she regularly cooks at home. This week, our co-founder Teddy Wolff is doing a deep dive into one of the things he loves: coffee. The photographer has been making at-home espresso for decades, and is a true obsessive of skillfully roasted beans. From specialty coffee that would please anyone to rare and unusual brews, these made-in-New-York roasts are some of his favorites of the moment.
“When I was 17 years old, I bought a brand new Rancilio Silvia V1 for $500. I was so fascinated by the machines, and the process–it seemed like a little bit of magic. And, I thought coffee tasted really good. Now, 17 years later, I still feel that magic. I like drinking coffee a lot, but what I really love is making coffee at home. I love the ritual of making it first thing in the morning, as well as the thoughtfulness and research required to improve upon yesterday’s cup. I mostly drink espresso at home (I start almost every day with cappuccinos, for me and my wife), and the downside of this method is that every time you switch coffees there’s an adjustment period. So, I don’t change it up very often and I’ve been primarily using the same coffee for espresso for years. When I want to experiment a bit with new flavors, a seasonal harvest, or what my local roasters are up to, I turn to pour-over.
For this issue, I tried three really great coffees that are all roasted in New York. This certainly isn’t an exhaustive guide to the best coffee in NYC today, it’s just some things I wanted to grind up and brew for one reason or another. They are, however, all delicious.”
Honey Moon Coffee Cosmovision, $20
Founded by brothers Ryan and Mike Naideau in 2021, Honey Moon Coffee is a small roaster with big ambitions. The New York-based musicians, who have day jobs in the music industry and as an adult language teacher, respectively, both worked in the coffee industry for years before they decided to start importing coffee from Ecuador and Nicaragua to New York City. That might not sound newsworthy for a coffee roaster, but not many small (or large) roasters actually import themselves. Honey Moon Coffee doesn’t have a big range of coffees, so it’s easy to work your way through their assortment. Their Cosmovision, an Ecuadorian bean by mountain climber-turned-coffee producer Pepe Jijón, seemed like it would be a great place to start–and it turns out that’s exactly right in more than one way. It’s round and familiar with a dark caramel nuttiness that’s balanced by a bright pop of lemon acidity.
Recommended for: This is a great coffee to try if you’re just dipping your toes into specialty coffee or if you are trying to convince the Starbucks fanatic who shares a kitchen with you that you can drink amazing coffee at home.
Regalia Finca Palmilera, $25.25
As the founders of Regalia Roasting Collective, Paolo Maliksi and Scott Rao are partially responsible for the rise of other artisanal coffee brands in New York. Their Long Island City facility offers equipment, facilities, education, and more resources for rising roasters. Since 2018, the duo has also had their own roasting brand, Regalia Coffee. Maliksi also co-owns Alita Cafe in Williamsburg, which is where I first tried their roasts.
For my at-home experimentation, I purchased the Palmilera, a Gesha (or more commonly Geisha) varietal microlot from producer La Candelilla in Tarrazú, Costa Rica. Gesha coffees from Panama are some of the most expensive in the world, so this bean is a great opportunity to try something unusual more affordably. It’s also a natural processed coffee, meaning the coffee fruit is left on the coffee bean to ferment and dry before being removed. Both the varietal and the process give this coffee some huge fruit flavors. Unmistakably strawberry and jasmine, this is not a subtle coffee. Regalia has a hit here, but I suspect that it won’t be around forever because beans like this won’t last!
Recommended for: Someone who wants to explore unusual and fruit-forward coffees. This bean is a lot of fun–and not for Folgers drinkers!
Sey Coffee Mazateca #1, $23.25
Co-founders Tobin Polk and Lance Shnorenberg got their start working out of a fourth-floor loft in Bushwick. In 2017, they upgraded to a storefront property and have gained a cult-following for both their beans and their business model. The process of coffee being grown and harvested, processed, imported, sold, and roasted is a journey. Sey Coffee highlights this story in every package, including the price paid at the farm, the price paid by the importer to purchase the processed green coffee, as well as the price they paid as the roaster.
They offer beans from around the world–including Honduras, Ethiopia, Columbia, Mexico–at a range of price points, so there’s something for everyone. On my recent visit, I took home a bag of the Mazateca, which was very light in body with gentle acidity and hints of orange blossom and dark chocolate. It’s easy drinking, with no bite or bitterness. If that sounds uninteresting, I’m doing this coffee a disservice. It’s subtle and tea-like in its lightness, but also so full of energy. I always drained the last drops from my cup, and can’t wait to try it as an espresso, both with and without milk.
Recommended for: Someone who appreciates subtlety. This coffee is excellent, but not loud. It’s also coffee is extremely versatile and could work well in a range of brew methods, including pour over, aeropress, and espresso.
An enthusiastic selection of stories about food makers, founded by Anna Polonsky from Polonsky & Friends and Teddy Wolff.
Story and photos by Teddy Wolff for The Deligram.
Tips whispered by Mary Grace Tate, James O’brien.